Emmanuelle Alt - Parisian Style Star's new Role!

The fashion world was thrown into a frenzy last month with the shock departure of Carine Roitfeld from Vogue Paris. Roitfeld is regarded, as the mastermind behind the most powerful imagery in fashion media surely the infamous magazine couldn’t survive without her?

Well have no fear because the uber talented Emmanuelle Alt will be taking over the reigns as editor-in-chief and there is no better woman; not only has she been Carine’s right hand woman with her creative director role since 2001 but she is also the stylist and creative vision behind some of the most memorable and infamous shoots the magazine has had over the past decade.

But Alt has more than just a Vogue Paris string to her bow (as if that alone wasn’t enough), she is also the creative director behind many past brand campaigns such as Gucci, Balmain and Guiseppe Zanotti. She has styled the international catwalks and campaign shoots for these iconic labels and continues to work closely with them!

Alt’s work evokes a raw sensuality that can only really be associated with her and Vogue Paris. There is something about the French and in particular French Women being at ease with their bodies and nudity on display… she does not create images like this for shock value, but more because embracing the female form is embracing beauty! Something Ireland really needs to start coming around to!

So here is looking forward to a new decade of Vogue Paris, and happily anticipating what Alt brings to the table.

Lanvin’s Alter Ego

Ever since the hotly anticipated Lanvin collaboration with H+M sold out within minutes of going on sale, fashion’s man-of-the-moment became Alber Elbaz.

Not that he is new to adoring female fans! His beautiful collections have been admired by fashion’s and Hollywood’s élite ever since he was named artistic director of Lanvin in 2001!

To look at, Elbaz isn’t what you would typically associate with a top fashion designer; he doesn’t have the outrageous dress sense of Galliano, the debonair and sophistication of Tom Ford or even the iconic style sense of Karl Lagerfeld! In fact, Elbaz looks more like the cute, dorky kid around the corner… complete with ill-fitting suits and over-sized dickie bows! (Which makes him all the more endearing).

But forget first impressions – Elbaz designs like his alter ego… the hero who saved and revived a collapsing French fashion house and dresses women to perfection!

Bugs and insects became a recurring inspiration for this season’s collection; however, the woman Elbaz created was much more complicated than that!

She is a bold hybrid of an insect and a superhero… think Spiderman – but with style and without the geeky alter ego!

From subtle undercover agents wearing dark sunglasses in black draped jumpsuits to caped crusaders in chiffon pleated bodysuits, the designs can then morph from cocooned structured outfits into full-on drama in elegant evening gowns that billowed in the wind like Superman’s cape!

Many of the dresses were form fitting with cut-out details, skeletal pleated mini dresses, and body-armour in earthy tones with strong structure and bold embellishments… almost like the outer shell of an insect or the protective uniform of a superhero.  The sheath style resembling a second skin was another beautiful option with that stunning draping we love and expect from Lanvin designs!

My favourite look from the catwalk has already been worn by ‘Gossip Girl’ Blake Lively, a stunning nude vest with a leather camel harness and belt, large bug jewel and stunning mint green flowing skirt. Other stars also seen wearing his S/S 11 collection before it hits stores are Rachel McAdams and Gwyneth Paltrow.

The show itself started out quite dark, showcasing the ‘alter-ego’ daywear looks, with sensible flat footwear, discrete sunglasses, office appropriate attire and even the odd day/work bag available. It was only when ‘At Last’ by Etta James came onto the playlist that an array of colourful and vibrant outfits abounded the runway, more leg became apparent and the collection itself took a turn towards a more typically Lanvin look. The show ended with the army of models dressed to kill (literally) taking their final walk together!

All Aboard the Orient Express - LOUIS VUITTON S/S 11' REVIEW

While in New York recently, I was walking through Soho when I was approached by a man attempting to sell me cheap knock-off Louis Vuitton bags. Honestly, it wasn’t even the imitation leather or slightly dysfunctional zip that turned me off… it was that over-exposed, over-repeated logo plastered across the fabric. I just thought -Tacky!

And it wasn’t until I saw this season’s LV catwalk show that my faith in and love for the brand was restored! Louis Vuitton has come a long way since the days of gaudy mass-produced, monogram bags and although it is still very much a key-piece associated with the label, there is so much more they have to offer - ever since America’s fashion darling Marc Jacobs took the helm in 1997, the brand has gone from strength to strength.

This season, the catwalk collection was an abundance of collaborative inspirations. Memoirs of a Geisha meets the Great Gatsby meets Bugsy Malone on the Orient Express heading to the Art Deco district of Miami Beach!

 

1930s’ style dresses were updated in shimmering metallic knitted fabrics, sheer lace and other fabrics like satin and lurex in deep berry tones and glamorous golds with low-slung sequined obi-belts and dangerously plunging necklines!

Mandarin collars were featured throughout, with soft pyjama-style 2-piece looks and authentic oriental buttons… slightly undone at the base to give a more alluring appeal.

 Applique played a huge part throughout, with tassel features adorning dresses, embellished tiger heads sewn onto knitwear, ribbons hanging from floral prints and sequins galore.

Animal print was apparent like it has never been seen before; entire shapes of animals were printed across dresses and suits in a very bold and vibrant manner! Something Cruella Deville would have been proud of!

Accessories were kept to a bare minimum with such elaborate dressing… strappy sandals and small evening bags. Hair was a side swept ‘30s’ bun, while make-up remained sultry with a shimmering smoky eye and dewy berry-tone lip.

It was a high-octane, vibrant show with a collection full of spice… I loved the trio of models shimmying down the catwalk flaunting their fans in an array of quality street colours… delicious!

Uncharacteristically Chanel!!!

Chanel was uncharacteristically casual this season, and underwent somewhat of a fashion make-under!

Naturally, there were elements of the iconic and historic brand – with tweed twin-sets, layered pearls and the classic pastel and monochrome colour schemes.

However, this season, Karl Lagerfeld seemed to be inspired by a new age of Chanel fans; fashion IT girls such as Alexa Chung, Olivia Palermo and Mischa Barton have been putting their youthful stamp on the label by wearing Chanel items in a new edgier way than before and it seems Karl gave his S/S 11’ collection a shot of youth serum too.

Typical twin-sets were given a modern overhaul with hot pants replacing skirts, teamed with understated t-shirts and bold floral blouses. One of my favourite looks was the deceptively prim and proper tweed jackets worn over matching waistcoats teamed with barely-there hot pants and edgy accessories such as chainmail fingerless gloves and chunky metallic cut-out shoes.

Small-deconstructed details gave the clothes a raw feel; frayed hems, raffia-style feathers on tops and bouffant-feathered skirts and cuffs and even hemlines, meanwhile denim was given a new lease of life with perforated fabric almost resembling the infamous tweed print.

This is possibly one of the most wearable collections we have seen from Chanel in years –- Lagerfeld said that a new use of texture and re-working of fabrics make this a dynamic collection with something for everyone, and I have to agree… one of his new tweed jackets would work very nicely into my wardrobe!

However, not one to shy away from a little drama, the finale to the collection saw supermodel Carmen Kass parade down the catwalk in a show-stopping, feathery peach-coloured dress with metallic perforated shoes. Although the look didn’t necessarily fit in with the rest of the collection it was nice to see an element of Chanel showmanship in what was otherwise a very delicate and understated show.

So what can we expect to sift down from catwalk to closet? Next season, look for fabric details like soft feathers, raw edges, perforated fabric and even selvedge edges. Metallic will remain a trend but in a much more muted way than the bolder Christmas looks!

Holly Fulton; 'A jet-set socialite with a crush on Joan Collins'

There was something very ‘Versace’ about Holly Fultons’s debut solo collection; the big hair and bright colour pops reminded me of the good old days of Gianni (okay granted I was 10 when he died but I still know my stuff). Not only was there a strong 80’s vibe with her colourful looks, but there were also some very vibrant prints in bright blues, oranges, yellows and dashes of monochrome. It reminded me of the art-deco district in Miami where there are stunning colours and patterns seen across the exterior of buildings in South Beach… which ironically is where Gianni Versace was murdered!

Alas apparently her inspiration actually came from France; with a colour palette inspired by glass artist Louis Barillet and the cinema du look of the 80’s. Although I prefer my comparison! Holly is taking her customers/fans on what seems to be a world tour; from safari chic with animal-like prints, to waterproof cruise control, to South Beach shopping and more... it seems like the collection belongs in the luggage of a jet-set socialite with a crush on Joan Collins.

 

This is Fulton’s first season showing solo at London Fashion Week, but she is by no means a newbie in the industry. She was the winner of Young Designer of the Year Awards at the Scottish Fashion Awards, has a British Fashion Award and she also won the Elle Style Award for New Designer 2010. So it’s clear to see why her collection is so strong and complete.

Her glamazon prints and passion for pop art and colour are clear to see in this powerful S/S 10’ collection. Her outfits have a carefree ease about them, but it’s the luxurious fabrics, vivid prints and luxe accessories that bring it from nonchalant to uber glamourous.

The rain-slicker yellow laser-cut dress with cheeky cocktail glass shapes around it certainly caught my eye. An innovative and slightly unusual choice of fabric, but the skater skirt silhouette is a flattering shape for every woman and I imagine the quirky design would be loved by cool fashionistas such as Zooey Deschanel and Fearne Cotton.

The stunning Palazzo Pants are my favourite pieces from her looks, with their tribal motif designs she allows them to be the statement piece and kept it simple on top with silk vests. The Art Deco necklace completes the outfit with a finished touch!

 

The City Shorts are a look you can imagine the stylish Olivia Palermo wearing for sure. Balancing the vivacious shorts with a simple shift silk top. This look oozes effortless glamour.

If this is only the beginning for Holly, I cannot wait to see what’s next!

'Futuristic Ice Maiden meets an Alien Ziggy Stardust’

It’s always exciting to be one of the first to witness a new emerging talent. And at the debut show of MASHA MA show that is certainly what happened! Her cool collection of origami influenced outfits lit up the catwalk in a swishing abundance of crisp whites and shimmering silvers. You’d be forgiven for thinking you’d just stepped into the North Pole, but she didn’t receive a frosty reception - quite the opposite, a collection of oohs and ahhs whispered from the front rows as outfit after outfit impressed editors and stylists alike.

Although she states that her inspiration was drawn from the industirla landscape of New York’s meat packing district; I would personally describe it as ‘Futuristic Ice Maiden meets an Alien Ziggy Stardust’. The collection had a little something for everyone’s taste, from the structured origami dresses, to the fluid draping of silvers, the sheer chiffons, to the tailored trousers, geometric shapes and overall fluidity and layering… I adored every single piece! And I’m not the only one, she has already caught the attention of publications such as Vogue, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, L’Officiel to name but a few.

Some of my favourite looks from the collection –

                                                                    Feminine Folds

                                 
                                                                        Alien Skin

                                                                  
                                                                        Ice Warrior

Silver Streak

Modelled by the gorgeous Irish Model Caitlin Leckey from Morgan.

Ziggy Stardust

Touch of Frost

(Modelled by Jessica P from Models 1 who I worked with on a Brown Thomas Shoot recently)

Fashion Mode @ LFW

Fashion Mode is a novel approach to promoting new designers! It is a company led by Andrea Abraham whose soul purpose is to nurture and cultivate a new generation of fashion talent through catwalk shows, pr and marketing and with the ultimate aim of bringing back cutting-edge and innovation to London Fashion.

This year Fashion Mode was supporting 4 new rising stars; two menswear and two womenswear collections;

                                                                         James Hillman

James Hillman’s collection was an interesting one – it is only recently that I have even begun to have an interest in menswear (it usually bores me), but Hillman’s 'Teddy boy' inspired looks took a special twist. He confused the viewers by creating a collection that was almost unisex in design and with his unusual mix of fabrics (silk, leather, chiffon and jersey), he clouded the boundaries between feminine and masculine looks! He seemed to take what was typical menswear silhouettes but distorted them by using unexpected fabrics and little touches of innovation here and there, like sheer boat-neck shirts, or the unusual short-shaped collars. His palette of grey hues kept the androgynous effect throughout and found myself picking out pieces that I too would wear. My favourite had to be the slate-grey chiffon trousers… a little risqué for an average guy perhaps… but team them with say Russell Brand or Kate Moss and you are onto a winner!

                                                                          Elson Figueiredo

This menswear collection was inspired by the people who travelled with circuses and amusements shows in the 19th Century; otherwise known as Carnies! It was an interesting show because he had picked beautiful male models with very feminine features to display his creations, but unfortunately for me this distracted a little from the clothes as I found myself staring at the models faces instead. However, looking back at the pictures I now see he created an extremely wearable collection that has mass appeal. He describes his own designs as a “mish-mash of casual workwear and traditional tailoring”, we can see this with the more traditional menswear elements of breast pockets, tailored jackets and subtle elbow patches, combined with touches of gingham piping and binding in some of the looks.

                                                                        Carlotta Barone

The most outspoken and politically charged collection belonged to Carlotta and was aptly called 'wear my skin'. The idea behind this was to create clothing that spoke her mind and boldly stated to fight against the racism. Digitally printed slogans of anti-rasicm were printed like newsprint all across these skin hugging bodysuits, almost like an entire tattooed body. But this wasn’t just a political statement; over these bodysuits was an extremely innovative collection. The outfits were delicately crafted in a way that resembled cages and slaves garbs; constructed by beautiful draping and clever tailoring she managed to find the perfect balance between femininity and sexy – focusing on body-contours and the structure of the female form.

                                                                           Florian Jayet

Florian Jayet absolutely knocked my socks off. It was possibly my favourite collection of the four - His innovative designs were inspired by the outer shell of insects - which ultimately created the body-armour looks like an exoskeleton! The outfits were predominately made from leather (my favourite) but also incorporated bits of metallic to infuse a futuristic element. He names Paco Rabanne and Thierry Mugler as his main influences… but Jayet’s designs stand on their own and although unique I would wear every single one of his pieces. Pure craftsmanship!

Images from the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Blog: www.vauxhallfashionscout.com