The Dark Prince of Fashion RIP.

The Dark Prince of Fashion

 

The fashion world has lost it’s true visionary. News of Alexander McQueen’s sudden death yesterday (11th Feb 2010) at his London home has sent shock-waves through the industry, as New York Fashion week began, instead of celebrating the new creative talents, we were mourning the loss of fashion’s Dark Prince. No doubt it will be a long time before someone of his innovative and creative ability steps into the limelight again.

Lee McQueen as he was known began his career in fashion at the early age of 16. He learned his craft as an apprentice in Savile Row and it was this early on that we got a glimpse of his twisted and naughty nature, when he revealed in an interview that he sewed ‘I am a cunt’ into the lining of a coat made for Prince Charles.

He then went on to graduate with a masters in fashion design form the prestigious Central Saint Martins College and revealed at his debut show his unique, raw vision that we know and love today. His designs caught the eye of Isabella Blow, an aristocratic British eccentric and former editor of British Tatler who became his mentor and bought his entire first collection.

His work evolved into that of a true artist, taking his inspiration from nature and death, using predatory birds and lethal snakes to influence his designs. His work, however extreme in design, was always skillfully crafted using his early tailoring experiences and managed to have a romantic softness even in their bizarreness. His families Scottish Heritage also had an impact on his imaginative designs and he showed tartan, kilts and feathers in a whole new light in his work! His designs were always fantastical and theatrical...which made him stand out amongst any other designer of his time.

Lee was made the head designer for Givenchy in 1996 but was then was poached by the Gucci group, which supported and developed his own label, Alexander McQueen. His label has gone from strength to strength and had even opened up his own stores in London, New York, Los Angeles, Milan, and Las Vegas. He unsurprisingly won British Designer of Year 4 times throughout his career, and his fashion shows are the one spectacle that will be sorely missed on the fashion circuit as he was known for his extravagant displays of showmanship.

His most recent show for S/S 2010 was his most brilliant to date…a collaboration with friend Lady gaga previewing her bad romance video while the models tottered down the catwalk in the now infamous mythological hoof-style shoes (see ‘extreme fashionistas’ article). The unique graphic-print designs from this collection were a combination of bug and beast influences, the bright colours remind me of when you would make those butterfly prints as a child where you would splodge paint on paper and then fold it to create a beautiful print. It is mesmerizing to watch what he puts down the catwalk every season, and it is deeply saddening to know there will be no more! No doubt his last ever collection will at some stage brace the catwalk in a final tribute to the influential designer.

Alexander McQueen was a designer like no other, he pushed the creative and artistic boundaries and truly made his mark in fashion history. RIP.

The Bare Necessities...

Ever since Madonna donned her Dolce and Gabbana cone bra, or Carrie Bradshaw swanned around NYC in what was debatably lingerie a lot of the time, the female nation (and of course male nation too) have been obsessed with lingerie on display! So it’s no wonder that Dior’s Couture and Summer Collections are influenced largely by the delicate design of lingerie.

The Dior Couture Show Winter 2009 was originally inspired by the old photographs of Christian Dior dressing his models in the traditional French salon, where he previewed the collection to his clients. This is where the half-dressed effect came about; the couture collection has flashes of corsets, stockings, bras and knickers, and although there is a distinct 1950s’ style to the clothing, he brings the exposing of garments through in a very contemporary way.

He also brought this lingerie inspiration through to his ready-to-wear Spring/Summer collection; it is in a much more subtle way, with delicate sheer fabrics, deep silks resembling nightwear slips and lots of lace.

Other designers were more suggestive in their influences, with corset detailing appearing on tops, sheer fabrics and laces adorning many outfits and subtle flashes of flesh. The short shorts or high waited pants returned to the catwalk too this season, showing that it’s not only Lady Gaga trumping this look!

Celebrities like Daisy Lowe, Sienna Miller and Taylor Momsen are the people leading this trend off the catwalk! Taylor Momsen’s style is very grungy/heroin chic and just like Blondie back in the ‘80s she is championing this half-dressed, rolled-out of bed look… whenever she is performing, she is wearing some sort of underwear as outerwear or vintage slip dress. Some celebrities who have been channeling this underwear outerwear look for the past few years in the worst possible way would be Jodie Marsh and Katie Price…whatever you do, do not copy their attempts!

So what about us real women…will I get sniggers and jeers if I go to my local pub in a cropped brasserie worn with my jeans, or my bra showing through a sheer top? Well I can assure you that, no, I didn’t walk out of my house in a bra. There is a very fine line between what is acceptable and what is not…looking like an extra from ‘Pretty Woman’ is not!!! However, there are ways for you to infuse this trend into your wardrobe. Try layering; wear a cropped brassiere like the ones available in Topshop under a sheer or lacy bra, or for those of you a little less adventurous, you can do this same look with a bodysuit under, so there is no flesh on display.

Go for a lacy body suit for extra lingerie effect! I have seen some gorgeous young girls doing the crop top style with high-waisted trousers, and hey if you have the body and confidence to do this, go for it! I don’t think I’ll be recommending wearing knickers out to anyone though…even former style-setter Sienna couldn’t get away with that look!

Awear = A+

If you could give grades for fashion brands it’d be fantastic… points depending on style, trends, quality and, of course, price! Well, I was at the Awear Press Day last week and all I can say is the new Spring/Summer line ticked every box.

I remember back when I was in school and my mum shopped in Awear…it was slightly less trendy, always approachable and affordable, but rarely a fashionista’s first port of call! Well how times have changed - it seems in the past 8 years Awear has been giving top British brands like Topshop and River Island a run for their money and has become top of the fashion leaderboard.

This Spring is going to be a delightful array of nudes and peaches and pinks…just imagine rummaging through a ballet dancer’s trunk of goodies and hey presto. My favourite piece from the ‘Dakota’ collection has to be the stunning layered tutu-inspired skirt… toughen the look up with a cool t-shirt, denim shirt opened and flat leather boots to go for the glunge look. Or for those of you Carrie lovers…channel the opening Sex and the City credits and wear with a simple nude bodysuit underneath!

Another theme Awear is doing is the new take on last year’s military trend…a combination of utility and ethnic warrior. My must-have from this collection has to be the ultra-gorge green playsuit with ruffle detail…team with boyfriend cardi, over-sized shades and flat sandals or boots for daytime chic or go glam at night with chunky gold accessories and killer heels.

For high summer expect Miami Vice meets Cocacabana…the vivid collection is a refreshing surprise among a season so full of pastels. An array of bright and colourful dresses and individual pieces that will have you feeling like you’re on holiday even if you’re stuck in dull old Ireland. Channel Halston in these layered chiffon dreams that Nicole Ritchie and Rachel Zoe would ‘just die’ for. But your just gonna have to wait in high anticipation until June/July to get your hands on these gems. I have already put in a request for a long purple and blue maxi dress that usually I would consider too girly…but I’ve fallen in love!

And for my star buy of the season it has to be this strapless number… the neutral blush tone works perfectly with the uber soft, faux suede material, and the cut of the fabric gives the leather a new feminine look. Taking inspiration from the likes of Philip Lim and Hermes who gave leathers a much softer look for the Spring/Summer season, Awear’s new take on the must-have little leather dress from last season is ultra-girly, ultra-soft and ultra-wearable. You don’t need to be Angelina Jolie to get leather clad in this little number.

Top marks for Awear this Spring /Summer, showing that as usual…the Irish do it best!

Golden Globes Goodies... and baddies!

Under my Umbrella, ella, ella, eh eh could have been the song of the night at The Golden Globes 2010, the rain just didn’t stop…but that didn’t prevent our stars from gracing the red carpet in style!

Globe Goodies…

Christina Hendricks (of Mad Men fame) looked sensational! She was waving the flag for all curvilicious women out there! There are some old rules about dressing bigger frames, like stay away from volume and always dress in darker colours…well, Hendricks threw caution to the wind and wore a dress in a peachy champagne colour with extreme cascading ruffles…and she looked stunning in it! To top it all off, she was supporting young designer and project runway winner Christian Siriano.

The Brit star that seems to have taken over Keira Knightley’s former crown is Emily Blunt. She looked delicious in a rose pink tulle and chiffon strapless gown with ruffle detail by Dolce & Gabbana. It was delicate and effortless compared to some of the over-done American stars!

The romantic trend is one of the biggest of Spring/Summer season and Emily wasn’t the only star rocking this floaty trend. Maggie Gyllenhaal, Elisabetta (George Clooney’s latest arm candy), Chloe Sevigny and Heidi Klum all followed this sweet fairytale look.

Fergie, who was a pleasant surprise on the night, looked like a Grecian goddess in an Elie Saab chiffon gown, again following one of the bigger colour trends of the season in a lilac colour, with a crystal embellished waistline and ruched skirt. She looked like a movie star with softer hair and make-up and has shunned that vivacious popstar look she is known so well for.

Some will absolutely hate Drew Barrymore’s dress…and I can see why! But being a fashion fiend, I have to love it, I do! I love sparkle, I love figure-hugging silk, I love the champagne colour, I love the embellishment and I love Atelier Versace… I just didn’t love them all on this dress! I also don’t know if I liked the clusters of sparkle embellishment block on her hip…why, oh why, would anyone want to add inches there? But she gets on the best-dressed list purely for old-school glamour effort.

The undecided…

  Kruger is always a fashion risk-taker, which I can commend; however, I still haven’t made my mind up to whether I love it or loathe it! The tie-dye mixed pink Christian Lacroix dress she wore was a little too couture for the red carpet. I love Kate Hudson, and I love Marchesa Just as much…so I felt bad about putting the two of them, on this list! Maybe it was the bad weather that made this frock look out of place? However, the white, origami structural-inspired creation by Marchesa just didn’t completely win me over! But like I said, it’s Kate Hudson who is gorgeous no matter what she wears!

Sandra Bullock, what can I say! Colour… gorgeous, shape and fabric…disgusting. Basically, she looked like a ‘Quality Street’ wrapper! Not good, Miss Congeniality, not good!

Lea Michele…the star of the new hit cult show Glee did look stunning at her first Globes show, but there is still something a bit off about her outfit. Oscar de la Renta is known for his dramatic dresses, and although it is a stunning dress, I think it drowned out her tiny frame. Perhaps this dress would have looked better on someone with fair features and taller frame, Cameron Diaz for example!

Another star who usually always gets top marks for red carpet style is House actress Olivia Wilde. But her black and silver Gucci shimmery gown reminded me of a ‘90s’ Mariah Carey. The dress was exciting with a daring neckline and subtle draping. But the fabric cheapened the look a bit, which is why I am unconvinced.

Golden Grossness…

Light grey hues is a big colour trend for Spring/Summer…Patricia Arquette shows us how not to wear this colour! Her dress, made mostly of a dingy, grey flowy fabric, had a bizarre subtle animal print on it, and underneath was a gross metallic underlay. The criss-cross detail just made her look bigger than she is…a grey hot mess!

Penelope Cruz is not one to usually be on a worst-dressed list…however, borrowing a dress from Mortisha Adams wardobe is just never a good idea. Firstly, black on a red carpet is always a little too safe…so it would want to be an amazing dress. The mermaid style dress was over-fussy and the lace detailing was just too mumsy and totally lacked any of her natural sex appeal. She should have picked up some style tips while modelling for Spanish label Mango.

Another Mad Men star, Elisabeth Moss, looked like she was channeling Wendy from Peter Pan. The strapless, pastel-blue empire dress looked more a vintage nightie than a red-carpet dress and made her look frumpy, while the long necklace looked cheap and didn’t even suit the style of the dress. She gets points for on-trend pastel colour but that is it!


Dear, oh dear, there is not one positive thing I can say about Julianne Moore’s dress. It was shapeless like a bag of potatoes, an awfully dull and dark shade of grey (yes it is one of the IT colours of the season…but you got the wrong grey!!!) And then to top it all off, she had a fur trimming along the top that drooped down on her arms. I’m not even going to tell you who designed it, it’s that awful.

Ben De Lisi .. It's the Principle!

Those of you Project Catwalk fans will know Ben De Lisi as the charming and slightly annoying designers’ mentor. But for those of you who don’t know, he is also one of Britain’s best loved and most esteemed eveningwear designers! Ben designs a diffusion line in conjunction with Debenhams called BDL by Ben de Lisi, which has become one of the largest selling ranges under their Designers at Debenhams umbrella.

Well now Ben takes on his biggest challenge yet… he has become the head designer for Principles, and brings the British Highstreet brand back to its former glory with its new release early February at Debenhams. He has created a 106-piece collection for Principles specifically targeted at the 40+ woman. The collection focuses on well-tailored cuts, beautiful fabrics and flattering shapes and includes designs for weekend, smart day, occasion and evening wear, together with handbags and accessories. Ben de Lisi spoke up for the brand,

"I’m thrilled to be putting my name to and working on this new collection. It is aimed at the cultured, modern contemporary woman who has an eye for quality, cut and luxury. I just know it won’t disappoint,”

Ben de Lisi’s finest moment in fashion was when he made world headlines with the scarlet, one-shoulder gown Kate Winslet wore at the Oscars in 2002. He hopes to return Principles as one of the big sellers on the fashion market, and since there is a niche in the market for dressing the more mature ladies, it is sure to be a huge success.