Emmanuelle Alt - Parisian Style Star's new Role!

The fashion world was thrown into a frenzy last month with the shock departure of Carine Roitfeld from Vogue Paris. Roitfeld is regarded, as the mastermind behind the most powerful imagery in fashion media surely the infamous magazine couldn’t survive without her?

Well have no fear because the uber talented Emmanuelle Alt will be taking over the reigns as editor-in-chief and there is no better woman; not only has she been Carine’s right hand woman with her creative director role since 2001 but she is also the stylist and creative vision behind some of the most memorable and infamous shoots the magazine has had over the past decade.

But Alt has more than just a Vogue Paris string to her bow (as if that alone wasn’t enough), she is also the creative director behind many past brand campaigns such as Gucci, Balmain and Guiseppe Zanotti. She has styled the international catwalks and campaign shoots for these iconic labels and continues to work closely with them!

Alt’s work evokes a raw sensuality that can only really be associated with her and Vogue Paris. There is something about the French and in particular French Women being at ease with their bodies and nudity on display… she does not create images like this for shock value, but more because embracing the female form is embracing beauty! Something Ireland really needs to start coming around to!

So here is looking forward to a new decade of Vogue Paris, and happily anticipating what Alt brings to the table.

Lanvin’s Alter Ego

Ever since the hotly anticipated Lanvin collaboration with H+M sold out within minutes of going on sale, fashion’s man-of-the-moment became Alber Elbaz.

Not that he is new to adoring female fans! His beautiful collections have been admired by fashion’s and Hollywood’s élite ever since he was named artistic director of Lanvin in 2001!

To look at, Elbaz isn’t what you would typically associate with a top fashion designer; he doesn’t have the outrageous dress sense of Galliano, the debonair and sophistication of Tom Ford or even the iconic style sense of Karl Lagerfeld! In fact, Elbaz looks more like the cute, dorky kid around the corner… complete with ill-fitting suits and over-sized dickie bows! (Which makes him all the more endearing).

But forget first impressions – Elbaz designs like his alter ego… the hero who saved and revived a collapsing French fashion house and dresses women to perfection!

Bugs and insects became a recurring inspiration for this season’s collection; however, the woman Elbaz created was much more complicated than that!

She is a bold hybrid of an insect and a superhero… think Spiderman – but with style and without the geeky alter ego!

From subtle undercover agents wearing dark sunglasses in black draped jumpsuits to caped crusaders in chiffon pleated bodysuits, the designs can then morph from cocooned structured outfits into full-on drama in elegant evening gowns that billowed in the wind like Superman’s cape!

Many of the dresses were form fitting with cut-out details, skeletal pleated mini dresses, and body-armour in earthy tones with strong structure and bold embellishments… almost like the outer shell of an insect or the protective uniform of a superhero.  The sheath style resembling a second skin was another beautiful option with that stunning draping we love and expect from Lanvin designs!

My favourite look from the catwalk has already been worn by ‘Gossip Girl’ Blake Lively, a stunning nude vest with a leather camel harness and belt, large bug jewel and stunning mint green flowing skirt. Other stars also seen wearing his S/S 11 collection before it hits stores are Rachel McAdams and Gwyneth Paltrow.

The show itself started out quite dark, showcasing the ‘alter-ego’ daywear looks, with sensible flat footwear, discrete sunglasses, office appropriate attire and even the odd day/work bag available. It was only when ‘At Last’ by Etta James came onto the playlist that an array of colourful and vibrant outfits abounded the runway, more leg became apparent and the collection itself took a turn towards a more typically Lanvin look. The show ended with the army of models dressed to kill (literally) taking their final walk together!

All Aboard the Orient Express - LOUIS VUITTON S/S 11' REVIEW

While in New York recently, I was walking through Soho when I was approached by a man attempting to sell me cheap knock-off Louis Vuitton bags. Honestly, it wasn’t even the imitation leather or slightly dysfunctional zip that turned me off… it was that over-exposed, over-repeated logo plastered across the fabric. I just thought -Tacky!

And it wasn’t until I saw this season’s LV catwalk show that my faith in and love for the brand was restored! Louis Vuitton has come a long way since the days of gaudy mass-produced, monogram bags and although it is still very much a key-piece associated with the label, there is so much more they have to offer - ever since America’s fashion darling Marc Jacobs took the helm in 1997, the brand has gone from strength to strength.

This season, the catwalk collection was an abundance of collaborative inspirations. Memoirs of a Geisha meets the Great Gatsby meets Bugsy Malone on the Orient Express heading to the Art Deco district of Miami Beach!

 

1930s’ style dresses were updated in shimmering metallic knitted fabrics, sheer lace and other fabrics like satin and lurex in deep berry tones and glamorous golds with low-slung sequined obi-belts and dangerously plunging necklines!

Mandarin collars were featured throughout, with soft pyjama-style 2-piece looks and authentic oriental buttons… slightly undone at the base to give a more alluring appeal.

 Applique played a huge part throughout, with tassel features adorning dresses, embellished tiger heads sewn onto knitwear, ribbons hanging from floral prints and sequins galore.

Animal print was apparent like it has never been seen before; entire shapes of animals were printed across dresses and suits in a very bold and vibrant manner! Something Cruella Deville would have been proud of!

Accessories were kept to a bare minimum with such elaborate dressing… strappy sandals and small evening bags. Hair was a side swept ‘30s’ bun, while make-up remained sultry with a shimmering smoky eye and dewy berry-tone lip.

It was a high-octane, vibrant show with a collection full of spice… I loved the trio of models shimmying down the catwalk flaunting their fans in an array of quality street colours… delicious!

Uncharacteristically Chanel!!!

Chanel was uncharacteristically casual this season, and underwent somewhat of a fashion make-under!

Naturally, there were elements of the iconic and historic brand – with tweed twin-sets, layered pearls and the classic pastel and monochrome colour schemes.

However, this season, Karl Lagerfeld seemed to be inspired by a new age of Chanel fans; fashion IT girls such as Alexa Chung, Olivia Palermo and Mischa Barton have been putting their youthful stamp on the label by wearing Chanel items in a new edgier way than before and it seems Karl gave his S/S 11’ collection a shot of youth serum too.

Typical twin-sets were given a modern overhaul with hot pants replacing skirts, teamed with understated t-shirts and bold floral blouses. One of my favourite looks was the deceptively prim and proper tweed jackets worn over matching waistcoats teamed with barely-there hot pants and edgy accessories such as chainmail fingerless gloves and chunky metallic cut-out shoes.

Small-deconstructed details gave the clothes a raw feel; frayed hems, raffia-style feathers on tops and bouffant-feathered skirts and cuffs and even hemlines, meanwhile denim was given a new lease of life with perforated fabric almost resembling the infamous tweed print.

This is possibly one of the most wearable collections we have seen from Chanel in years –- Lagerfeld said that a new use of texture and re-working of fabrics make this a dynamic collection with something for everyone, and I have to agree… one of his new tweed jackets would work very nicely into my wardrobe!

However, not one to shy away from a little drama, the finale to the collection saw supermodel Carmen Kass parade down the catwalk in a show-stopping, feathery peach-coloured dress with metallic perforated shoes. Although the look didn’t necessarily fit in with the rest of the collection it was nice to see an element of Chanel showmanship in what was otherwise a very delicate and understated show.

So what can we expect to sift down from catwalk to closet? Next season, look for fabric details like soft feathers, raw edges, perforated fabric and even selvedge edges. Metallic will remain a trend but in a much more muted way than the bolder Christmas looks!